Category Archives: Adventure

Gray Flycatcher Science

One of our goals at FatherSonBirding is to encourage support of scientists and nonprofits working to protect our planet’s many imperiled bird species. We hope that you will consider sending a donation to Montana Bird Advocacy, whose work is featured in today’s blog. You can do this by clicking here. It will be money well spent!

Late July often ushers in the birding doldrums. Having finished courtship and breeding, most birds get super quiet. They often disperse from their breeding territories, too, making them more difficult—or at least unpredictable—to find. But this year I was in luck: I had a writing assignment that would guarantee I see at least a few very cool birds.

My best look yet at a stunning Ferruginous Hawk proved a delightful bonus to my day near Bannack.

You may recall my unsuccessful June trip down to Beaverhead County (see post In Search of the Green-tailed Towhee) to visit with biologist Jeff Marks, founder of the nonprofit scientific research group Montana Bird Advocacy.  There, Jeff and colleague Paul Hendricks are performing a long-term study on one of Montana’s little-known birds, the Gray Flycatcher. When I visited, Paul wasn’t there, but I also got to meet biologist and research assistant Nate Kohler, who has been playing a pivotal role in the study.

The word “gulch” conjured up a much more verdant image to my mind, but as you can see it takes some pretty special adaptations to survive in this rugged country.

Although my June trip allowed me to see many wonderful birds and interview Jeff and Nate, my intention to see the Gray Flycatchers got squashed by a freak winter storm. Worse, the storm wiped out a whole crop of nestling Gray Flycatchers. The good news? The adults had laid second clutches of eggs, and the babies were getting ready to fledge as I again headed down there the last week of July. This time, the weather would be ideal for seeing them.

Jeff and I headed out at 8:00 a.m. and made our way up Bannack Bench Road, which borders the study area. This was the third season of the study, and its purpose is to figure out some of the basic biology of a bird that scientists know very little about. To do that, Jeff, Paul, and Nate have been banding adult flycatchers with color bands that allow field identification and observation of individual birds.  The birds have been a challenge to catch, but the biologists have managed to band about a dozen each year—and with fascinating results. I won’t reveal too much about those results here since I’m also writing an article for Montana Outdoors magazine that will be out next year. However, I will tell you that seeing where these birds nest and what they are doing was a thrill.

Biologist Jeff Marks takes notes on a Gray Flycatcher nest in his Beaverhead County study area.

When Jeff first told me they were working in a place called Sheep Corral Gulch, I imagined sagebrush plants bordering some kind of verdant riparian zone, perhaps lined with aspens or junipers. Imagine my surprise to see nothing but sagebrush in every direction! Gray Flycatchers breed throughout the Great Basin, but one of the fascinating things about them is that they choose different habitats in different places. In other states, they nest in juniper, pinyon pine, and even ponderosa pine, but in this part of Montana the birds breed almost exclusively in sagebrush plants along dry washes. One thing that these places share in common is that they have open ground for foraging.

Color-banded adults allow Jeff and the Montana Bird Advocacy team to make detailed observations about mating and behavior of these little-known birds.

In Beaverhead County, though, not just any sagebrush will do. The birds nest only in taller plants four to eight feet high—plants that can mainly be found growing in the (usually) dry main stream channels of gulches. This year, Jeff and his colleagues located about a dozen nests, one to two hundred meters apart, and as Jeff and I began hiking, it wasn’t long before we spotted an adult bird up ahead. Using GPS coordinates, it took only minutes for Jeff to locate the bird’s nest—a nest with babies!

“They will fledge any day now,” Jeff told me, “and it looks like both parents are feeding them.” Having two involved parents gives the nestlings a huge survival advantage, and as we watched, we saw a parent deliver a juicy grasshopper to its ravenous chicks.

Most of the Gray Flycatcher nests were bursting with babies itching to head out on their own—after a few more meals from Mom and Dad!

For the next three hours, I followed Jeff as we visited one nest after another, and most were jam-packed with two or three babies champing at the bit to head out on their own. We, of course, made sure to stay well back so as not to spook them out of the nests before they were ready.

An unbanded adult Gray Flycatcher keeps watch on us as we move through its territory: “Move on. Nothing to see here, folks.”

I thought we would see a lot of other birds as we hiked, but especially this time of year, the birds stayed out of sight. We saw a couple of Brewer’s and Vesper sparrows, and a single Sage Thrasher and Northern Harrier. What a contrast from a month earlier when I spotted Sage Thrashers and Brewer’s Sparrows almost everywhere I looked! Nonetheless, I couldn’t have been more thrilled to get these up-close-and-personal looks at one of Montana’s most uncommon species.

Sage Thrashers were noticeably more elusive than only a month earlier, but this one did pose nicely on a fencepost along Bannack Bench Road.

You may be wondering just where Gray Flycatchers can be found in Montana. That itself is a fascinating story, because they apparently arrived in our state only recently. The first official record occurred in 1999, and Jeff believes that the birds may only have reached the Treasure State as part of an expansion northward from the Great Basin that occurred in the 1970s. Their Montana strongholds are in Beaverhead and Carbon counties (see post Bear Canyon—Montana’s “Tropical Birding” Paradise), but it takes careful observation and listening to distinguish the birds from almost identical-looking Dusky Flycatchers. The fact that the birds are so restricted here in Montana, though, points out how important it is that we protect our fragile sagebrush communities. It also underscores the great value of the work that Montana Bird Advocacy is conducting, because only by understanding the biology of the Gray Flycatcher and other sagebrush species can we know how to protect them.

Please consider supporting the ongoing work of MBA by clicking here and making a donation. The flycatchers will thank you—as will generations of future birders!

While getting ready for the next day at the study site, MBA’s rental cabin offered an idyllic view of pastureland, complete with deer, coyotes, and gobs of Common Nighthawks. Donate to Montana Bird Advocacy by clicking on this picture.

Campsite #512: Algonquin Provincial Park, Canada (Maine to Montana, Part 4)

Today, we continue Braden’s epic birding trip from Maine to Montana with an astonishing visit to a place few people get to experience: Algonquin Provincial Park. Enjoy this latest installment, and if you’d like to support FatherSonBirding and independent journalism, please consider buying one of Sneed’s books shown to the right. Oh, and please share this post!

Twelve hours west of the Maine border, I spotted the giant sign reading “Welcome to Algonquin Provincial Park.” When many birders think of Canada, they imagine huge tracts of boreal conifer forest filled with the birds of the north: Canada Jays, Yellow-bellied Flycatchers, crossbills and, of course, Black-backed Woodpeckers and Spruce Grouse. Much of my drive from western Maine towards Ontario did not give that impression at all. In fact, the part of Canada that includes Montreal and Ottawa (both cities that I drove through) is lower altitude than western New England, and much of it lies in the St. Lawrence River Valley, a warmer, more humid region filled with deciduous forests, agriculture and suburbs. The area reminded me more of central Pennsylvania or New Jersey than of western New England, despite being at a similar latitude.

But Algonquin Provincial Park was noticeably different from the St. Lawrence River Valley. Three hours west of Ottawa, this large preserve sat at a higher elevation than the valley. The soil was rockier and because of that, far more conifers grew here, especially around the various lakes and bogs scattered through the park. Finally, I felt like I was back in good boreal habitat.

Algonquin Provincial Park represented a significant departure from lower altitude St. Lawrence River Valley only a few hours away.

I wasn’t allowed to camp in the park without paying a hefty fine, so I pitched my tent on a dirt road right outside it, in what appeared to be a site for keeping horses on the shore of a large lake. As dusk fell, I heard the twitter of an American Woodcock displaying high above. I’d seemingly settled in the middle of his territory, and he kept me company all night as I dreamed of what birds I’d see the next day.

My impromptu campsite outside of the park rewarded me with an American Woodcock that serenaded me to sleep.

After a short walk around my campsite at dawn, during which I detected a few Cape May Warblers, I headed into the park. My first location: the Spruce Bog Boardwalk. Spruce bogs, which I’d gotten to know during my time in Maine and the Northeast, are strange, almost other-worldly habitats scattered across the northern United States. Generally consisting of an outer area dominated by spruce trees with a core of peat moss floating atop water, they are home to a variety of unique species including carnivorous plants like pitcher plants and sundews. Because of their unique habitat structures, spruce bogs are also havens for a variety of boreal bird species that are otherwise less common in more southern parts of their range. So, as I set foot on the boardwalk, I found myself once again searching for Spruce Grouse and Black-backed Woodpecker—species I find myself looking for frequently.

Extensive searching brought no luck, although I did find more boreal warblers, including several Cape May Warblers and another great look at a Bay-breasted. I also heard a Lincoln’s Sparrow, my first of the year, singing from the wet back half of the bog. I had much of the day to bird Algonquin Park, so after striking out on my main targets at the boardwalk, I decided to take a short stop at the visitor center. 

I had hoped for both Black-backed Woodpeckers and Spruce Grouse in this spruce bog, but struck out with both species.

Within ten seconds of pulling out onto the road my Toyota RAV4 screeched to a halt. There, ten feet away, staring me down, stood a huge female moose. The animal had to be at least five feet tall, though from my seat in the car it seemed a lot taller! After we shared several seconds of each other’s presence, the moose trotted off into the woods. I didn’t end up seeing any of my bird targets at the visitor center and the center itself was closed, but I was now filled with adrenaline—I’d just scored my most wanted mammal of the trip!

Next, I hit Rock Lake Road. While I hadn’t seen many reports of my target boreal birds here, I figured that this road—a dirt track winding past marshes and through patches of spruce and budding Paper Birch—was as good a spot to try as any! Over the next hour and a half I drove slowly with my head out the window. Again, no woodpecker and no grouse, but I ended up tallying 40 species, 15 of which were warblers! Nashville and Magnolia were the most abundant, along with a smattering of Black-throated Blue, Blackburnian, Canada and others. Near the beginning of the road I also heard several Wood Thrushes singing, a surprise this far north. Along my drive I was also accompanied by the near-constant drumming of Ruffed Grouse, and the loud, piercing whistles of a pair of Broad-winged Hawks.

Though I continued to strike out on BBWOs and SPGRs, Algonquin presented a nice assortment of warblers including Nashvilles, always a favorite!

At this point I admit that I was feeling a bit ungrateful. I’d been birding for three or four hours and had not so much as glimpsed either of my targets—birds that were supposed to be somewhat regular within the park, and had compelled me to drive through Canada in the first place. Sure, I’d seen some great birds and a moose. But if I went the whole day without getting a Black-backed or a Spruce Grouse, I was going to be a bit salty. I jumped on eBird to check on any recent reports of either of them nearby and elected to visit, as my last stop of the morning, Pog Lake Campground. A Black-backed Woodpecker had been seen there only a few days before, and I figured it would be my best chance before continuing my journey west. I parked the car and began walking toward Pog Lake, keeping my ears and eyes peeled for my target species. One of the first birds I heard was a Tennessee Warbler, another boreal species with an electric song, singing loudly from a campsite nearby. I recorded it and continued onwards.

Then, I came across Campsite #512. Surrounded by gorgeous coniferous trees, it at first seemed just like any other campsite in Pog Lake Campground. The first thing that made Campsite #512 stick out, though, was the Ruffed Grouse drumming in the bushes nearby. Now, I’ve heard plenty of Ruffed Grouse drumming in my life—and had heard dozens on this trip already. Seeing one in action was a different story. I’d tried to sneak up on them before, but was always unsuccessful—the birds would flush from under my feet. However, this particular bird sounded incredibly close so I shelved my other goals and went into full stealth mode, sneaking towards the campsite to see if I could watch the grouse in action. After about ten minutes of tiptoeing around, I heard the beating of its wings—and that’s when I spotted it. Through ten feet of dense foliage, there the grouse stood, its wings striking its chest to make the sound that you feel more than hear.

I promptly sat down and spent the next thirty minutes with that grouse. Every five minutes or so, it would stand upright on its mossy log and begin its display. Bom-bom-bom-bom-bom-bom-bom. I watched it drum five or six times—with and without binoculars, and filmed it on my phone’s camera. It was magical. (Click the above image to watch my short clip.)

After twenty minutes, I also heard honking overhead. At first, I couldn’t see any birds above me, but I figured it was just a flyover flock of Canada Geese, though the calls sounded a bit strange. Then, in the gap above Campsite #512, I spotted several flocks of two hundred or so geese—and quickly realized that these were not Canadas. Between a bad view I got through my binoculars and listening to their sounds on Merlin, I realized I’d just seen a massive flock of Brant migrating over me, headed for the Arctic! I’d never seen these birds away from the ocean and never in such numbers! Sure enough, though, Algonquin Park lies right in the middle of Brant’s narrow migration route across Canada, and I’d just happened to be in the right place at the right time.

The Brant disappeared into the distance and the grouse drummed again, and I decided that, even though I hadn’t found my targets, I felt more than satisfied with my experience with Pog Lake Campground. But Campsite #512 hadn’t finished with me. 

As I slowly stood, taking care not to startle the grouse, I heard strange, frantic calls coming from the woods on the other side of the campsite. I quickly recognized them as calls I’d been listening for all morning, and suddenly, a male Black-backed, decked out in sleek black feathers with a yellow cap, flew into the campsite. It landed on a downed log near me, and proceeded to hop along the ground, getting closer and closer to until it stood only five feet away! It either didn’t notice me or didn’t care, poking for insects in the roots of the nearby spruce trees. After a minute or two, the woodpecker flew away, leaving me debating if I should EVER leave Campsite #512.

My best-ever look at a Black-backed Woodpecker will forever embed Campsite 512 in my birding heart.

As you can probably guess, I did continue on my journey, but knew that my visit to Campsite #512 would become one of my most memorable birding mornings ever, one that would be etched in my brain for a long, long time.

Saying Goodbye to Lola, Our Birding Dog

Today, our family sadly bids farewell to our beloved dog Lola. Those of you that have been regularly following FSB, or have read my book Warbler’s and Woodpeckers: A Father-Son Big Year of Birding, will be familiar with Lola, but to honor her memory, I’d like to share her remarkable story in more detail.

The beginning of that story will always be shrouded in mystery. We adopted Lola thanks to the always-heroic and compassionate efforts of the Humane Society of Western Montana, and Braden’s sister, Tessa, was the driving force behind adding Lola to our family. For a couple of years, Tessa had gently expressed a desire to have another dog. Amy and Braden were on board, but I hesitated. For one thing, I knew that since I work at home, I would be the main caretaker of any new mammal in the household and I wasn’t sure I felt ready to add that responsibility to my list. Honestly, saying goodbye to our previous dog, our Border collie Mattie, had taken a huge emotional toll on me. Many people don’t hesitate to get a new pet when an old one has passed, but not me. I grieved long and hard for Mattie, and wondered if I were ready to invest so much of myself into a new companion.

We were so heartsick over the loss of our Border collie, Mattie, that it took a few years before we were ready to welcome Lola into our family.

Nonetheless, one afternoon three years after Mattie passed, I asked Tessa, “Hey, do you want to start checking out the Humane Society website?”

Her whole face brightened. “Really? To look for a new dog?”

We both thought that a black Lab would be perfect for our family—affectionate, but active enough to go on adventures—and about once a week, we searched the website for possibilities. Black Labs are so popular that a number of them became available, but each had some quality we thought would make them a poor fit for our family. One day, though, I was looking at the site by myself when Lola popped up on the screen. HSWM estimated she was about two years old and she had been found in Polson, Montana nursing eight puppies!

Over the years, Lola spent almost as much time in my office as I did—including time inviting me to play with her and her Whale.

I immediately called HSWM to find out if Lola was still available and got put through to the director, who actually knew me from some of my past author events. “Well,” she said, “Lola isn’t officially available yet because she and her puppies have been in quarantine for distemper.”

“Oh, is that serious?” I asked. I had heard of this disease but knew nothing about it. “It can be,” the director replied, “but Lola and her puppies have come through just fine. I’ve been keeping them all at my house, but if you’d like to see her you could come out this Saturday.”

One of my favorite Lola photos, with “her girl” Tessa amid spring Arrowleaf Balsamroots.

Immediately, my devious mind began imagining surprising Tessa and Braden with a visit to see Lola, and Amy agreed that it would be a fun idea. The night before, I told the kids, “We’re going on a little outing tomorrow morning.” “Where?” they asked. “Oh, just somewhere fun,” I said.

Hangin’ out in Sneed’s office, waiting for some action.

I’d like to claim that I stayed mum until we actually saw Lola the next morning, but once we climbed in the minivan I weakened and told them where we were going. “We’re going to see a dog?” Tessa asked. I’d rarely seen so much excitement in a kid, and a big smile also spread across Braden’s face. That excitement only increased when we pulled into the director’s long driveway and saw a slender black Lab trotting ahead of the director, returning from a walk.

Amy, Tessa, and Lola at the flourishing reclaimed Milltown dam EPA Superfund site.

“Is that Lola?” Tessa exclaimed.

“I think so,” I said.

We parked near the house and all piled out. The director had warned me that Lola had some issues with men, so I just sat down on the blacktop next to our car and waited for her. Without so much as a growl, she trotted directly to me to receive a vigorous helping of head pets and back scratches. As Amy and the kids approached and also began petting her, none of us had any doubt that this was our dog and that we were her family. With the director’s blessings, we took her home that day.

The day we picked up Lola to take her home! By the time we got there, only one of her puppies, Jagger, remained to be adopted.

I’d like to tell you that from that moment on, Lola’s integration into our lives was pure, smooth sailing, but . . . that’s not quite the case. HSWM believed that Lola had lived totally on her own for most of her two-year existence, and not surprisingly she came with some baggage. Almost from our first walk, we discovered that she viewed most adults with suspicion, and she reserved a special repertoire of warning growls and barks for tall men, skateboarders, bicyclists, and anyone carrying any stick-like object, be it a cane, broom, or baseball bat. It didn’t take a genius to conclude that in the past she had endured some hard treatment at the hands of people. It also meant that we had to be especially careful taking her out.

Lola’s first walk with the Collard Clan.

After a number of tense incidents, we finally booked some sessions with a dog trainer. These made all the difference, and steadily we were able to teach her to become less reactive to most of the kinds of people she found threatening. Steady doses of love and affection from Tessa and the rest of us also helped build up Lola’s trust in humanity.

Meanwhile, Braden and I were doing our first Big Year of birding, trying to pursue our personal goal of finding 350 species of birds for the year. We easily worked Lola into our birding adventures, whether it was up the Mount Jumbo Saddle, out at Fort Missoula, Blue Mountain, or Maclay Flat.

One of our first Lola birding hikes, up onto Mount Jumbo Saddle. Lola loved snow almost as much as she loved water.
Lola took great interest in this sudden appearance of ducks behind the Missoula YMCA. I’m not sure she ever learned to ID them to species.

It was during these adventures that we noticed something surprising. When we were out birding, Lola just naturally switched into “work mode.” She seemed to recognize that birding, like hunting, was a serious activity and part of her job in life. During these sessions, Lola proved amazingly responsive, obeying our commands without complaint. When we stopped, she stopped. When she smelled something, she paused in a classic “point”, one front paw frozen in an up position until we she saw us moving on. In this way, she became not only our newest family member, but Braden’s and my “birding dog.”

A wet morning birding hike with “her boy.”

During the next eight years, Lola accompanied our family on countless adventures—and led us on some that were strictly her own idea. She had a particular passion for chasing invasive squirrels and re-opened some of our local habitat for our native squirrels to move back in. I also brokered a deal between Lola and our neighborhood deer. In this U.N.-sponsored agreement, Lola was at liberty to chase the deer to the edge of our yard, but then had to halt—a deal to which she generally adhered.

Squirrel stare down in front of our house. I could leave Lola for fifteen or twenty minutes like this and she wouldn’t budge.

To be honest, she wasn’t that great at locating birds for Braden and me, but she did find Braden a gorgeous Dusky Grouse once and, last year, rooted out some Gray Partridges from the grass in the hills near our house. She was under strict orders not to try to catch any birds, and I think she was fine with that. Squirrels were much more fun!

Lola at one of our favorite hiking destinations, Mount Jumbo Saddle. Dozens of times in spring, Lola and I woke before dawn to hike up here and check on whether Vesper Sparrows and meadowlarks had returned!

We thought that Lola would be part of our family until she was at least fourteen or fifteen years old. This spring, when we learned that a lump in her mouth was an aggressive oral melanoma, we were at first shocked, and then devastated. Dr. Nicole, our wonderful vet at Pruyn Veterinary in Missoula, removed as much of the tumor as she could, and told us we could elect for radical surgery combined with taking her to Bozeman for radiation treatment—but also said that probably the cancer had already metastasized, limiting chances for success. We did end up doing two more lump “debulkings” to keep the tumor from preventing Lola eating and enjoying life, but mainly vowed just to give her the best remaining time possible.

Until cancer struck, Lola’s most serious injury came from an encounter with a sneaky, sharp tree stump buried in the snow. Despite its gruesome appearance, this wound healed quickly and we thought we would get plenty more years with her.

From then on, we tried to do something special with her every single day, whether it was taking her on one of her favorite hikes, down for a swim at McCormick Park, or to Dairy Queen for a “pup cone.”  It was truly a special time for all of us, but by about three weeks ago—three months after her diagnosis—I could tell that Lola’s energy was waning and that the cancer had probably spread to some of her vital organs. Finally, when our girl was obviously beginning to struggle and her appetite decreased, I made an appointment with Dr. Nicole for a home visit.

During her last couple of months, Tessa and I made sure Lola got to plenty of chances to swim after sticks, an activity that rated as one of her greatest joys in life.
Selfie on one of our last big hikes together.

On our final morning together, we all took Lola for a pup cup at Starbuck’s and then drove out to a local pond. Lola always loved car rides and I could tell she loved this one, especially surrounded by the rest of her pack. What’s more, at the pond, she actually went for a couple of little swims and joyfully chased little splashes we made with rocks while we alternated between laughs and tears. After hanging out at the pond, we took Lola home for lots of cuddles and a nap. As happy as she’d been at the pond, I could tell it had used up her reserves. Overall, we couldn’t have asked for a better last day with our dear sweet dog, and as Dr. Nicole eased Lola out of this life, we had no doubt that she was ready to say goodbye.

Alas, we are not ready, and will be grieving and remembering her as long as our own lives last, always grateful for her joyful, crazy presence in our lives. As a friend of mine once related, we buried Lola not in the ground, but in our hearts.

Lola on her very last outing, surrounded by her pack. We love you, Lola!

We encourage you to donate to the important work of your local Humane Society chapter and/or support both national and local animal welfare groups such as the ASPCA, Feeding Pets of the Homeless, and Dogster’s Spay & Neuter Program.

Redstart Rendezvous at Sears Island, Maine (Maine to Montana, Part 3)

Today, we are pleased to offer the third in Braden’s series about his adventures driving across the country from Maine to Montana. Already, it’s been an incredible birding journey—and he’s not even out of Maine! Sneed is also pleased to announce that two of his books, Birding for Boomers and Like No Other, have been named finalists for the High Plains International Book Awards. We hope some of you Montana residents will join Sneed for the celebration and to crown the winners at the awards ceremony in Billings on October 4th!

I had never seen so many American Redstarts. The birches and maples standing on the northern tip of Sears Island, at times, had more warblers on their branches than leaves. According to Wesley Hutchins, this was the norm for Sears Island during spring, and part of the reason why he’d been wanting to bring me here since we’d become friends four years ago.

I’d met Wes a month or two after arriving at the University of Maine, and thanks to the hours and days we’d spent together exploring the forests and coasts of the state, I now considered him one of my closest friends. Wes and I kept in close contact during the summers when we worked out-of-state (California and Pennsylvania for me, New York for him), keeping each other updated on all of the awesome birds we were seeing around the country. He’d graduated a year before me, but still visited UMaine every week to spend time with me and his other friends there. I had never visited his hometown of Belfast, however, despite it being only an hour away from the campus where I’d gone to college. This week, I was bent on changing that, and now here I was birding the spots that he’d fallen in love with over the last few years.

Selfie of me and Wes at one of his favorite birding spots, Sears Island, Maine.

“It’s really weird seeing you here—in the good way!” Wes admitted, and I nodded. I’m sure I would feel the same way once I finally convinced him to visit me in Montana.

We’d spent the previous evening walking around Belfast Harbor, a pleasant little cove tucked away into the side of Maine’s midcoast region and another one of Wes’s favorite birding spots. This morning, however, he’d taken me to Sears Island, Waldo County’s best birding hotspot and a prime location to see migrating warblers. Upon setting foot on the island, I began to notice warblers—redstarts, a Chestnut-sided, a Northern Waterthrush—but nothing out of the ordinary. I’d been seeing warblers like this all week. We wandered a bit, down into the forested center of the island, but things stayed eerily quiet. After about twenty minutes, Wes turned to me and said, “We should go back to the northern point. That’s usually where all the action is.”

Unlike the other warblers, Sears Island’s Ovenbirds were keeping pretty quiet on the day Wes and I visited.

I felt skeptical. I much prefer walking around to staying in one spot to bird, but Wes had the local knowledge so I followed his lead. We walked back and we immediately began to see birds we hadn’t seen just twenty minutes ago—a Blackburnian Warbler and a couple of Magnolias. Then, I looked up.

In the sky above us floated dozens of warblers, all seeping and chipping as they struggled to combat the winds rushing over the island. Many of the birds faced north, while others zoomed in from the north, landing in the trees directly to our right and left. We stationed ourselves directly in front of a flowering apple tree that seemed to be overflowing the warblers and began calling things out.

“I’ve got two Magnolias on the same branch.”

“Is that a Tenness—no, it’s just a REVI.”

“Here’s our third Wilson’s of the day, a nice male!”

“Six redstarts in this one tree alone. Scratch that, seven.”

One of approximately one hundred American Redstarts we counted at Sears Island.

What we were experiencing was a river of warblers. Every three minutes or so, the birds we’d been staring at would vacate and be replaced by new birds dropping in from above, all slowly making their way toward the causeway that connected Sears Island to the mainland. One in every three warblers was an American Redstart, and there were easily hundreds of warblers. Mixed in with the warblers were small numbers of other species: vireos, flycatchers, a couple Rose-breasted Grosbeaks. It was exactly the experience I’d hoped to have when I’d signed up to go to school on the east coast. The West doesn’t do songbird migration like the East does, especially when it comes to warblers. Montana has fourteen regularly-occurring species of warblers. On Sears Island, we’d seen fourteen species in a matter of minutes.

Rose-breasted Grosbeaks added further spice to an incredible wave of warblers migrating in!

My focus had been warblers the whole week, in fact, with the notable exception of the Acadia Puffin Cruise (see our recent post, Puffin Party). Just a day or two earlier, I’d spent two nights in Portland, Maine, with my good friend Hayden Page. We’d birded hard, visiting many of Maine’s famous birding hotspots like Scarborough Marsh, Laudholm Farm and Portland’s urban Capisic Park. The morning we’d hit Laudholm Farm had been incredible, with 81 species at the preserve including seventeen warbler species and a White-eyed Vireo, a rarity this far north. At an airport in Brunswick, Main, we’d also chased a Blue-winged Warbler—another southerner not supposed to be here. In the coming decades it wasn’t hard to imagine both the vireo and the warbler showing up more and more frequently in Maine thanks to warming temperatures and changes in habitat.

A Blue-winged Warbler—an unusual migrant that may become much more common in Maine as global temperatures warm.

The week had also exposed me to the diversity of Maine’s habitats. Living in Bangor during the colder months, my impressions of the state had mostly been of woods. And it is true that Maine has woods—it’s the most forested state in the country. But southern Maine, especially, holds its fair share of unique ecosystems. Kennebunk Plains Preserve, which I’d visited twice this spring, is a patch of grassland with Vesper and Grasshopper Sparrows and Eastern Meadowlarks. It is regularly burned to keep shrubs and trees from encroaching on it. Grassland used to be far more common in the state, following the intensive logging of the 1800 and 1900s, but now that the forest had grown back Kennebunk Plains was one of the only spots for certain species to be found.

Scarborough Marsh, which my dad and I had visited when we’d come out to Maine in fall of 2021 (see this post), held the largest chunk of salt marsh in the state. This habitat, which looks like a savannah floating on the edge of the sea, is also threatened, both in the state and worldwide, thanks to rising sea levels. The birds that live here include Willets and Saltmarsh Sparrows, the latter of which was the focus of my Honors Thesis Project and is one of North America’s most endangered birds. 

A Willet, one of our most common large shorebirds, at Scarborough Marsh.

Southern Maine is also a prime location for sandy beaches, and both the birds and the tourists know it. Maine’s coastal towns go from sleepy and affordable in winter to bustling and expensive during the summer, when Americans from all over flock to them to enjoy the summer. This has created problems with the wildlife that depend on sandy beaches as their homes, namely the Piping Plover and Least Tern, two species who spend their days hunting for invertebrates along the coastline and breed in the grassy dunes just upland of the beach. Thankfully, the state of Maine has put in a lot of work to close off these dunes to tourists and their destructive dogs, allowing the birds to nest in a fragile security. At Pine Point, just five minutes from Scarborough Marsh, Hayden and I got to watch a trio of Piping Plovers chasing each other around the beach at close range. It was also at Pine Point that I got to see my lifer Roseate Terns, along with the more common Least and Commons. 

Keeping Piping Plover populations going requires careful monitoring and protection from the swarms of people and dogs crowding East Coast beaches each summer.

Though I’d always joked about the cold weather, lack of mountains, and isolation of Maine, I was certainly going to miss the state I’d spent four years getting to know. The places AND the people. This was especially present in my mind after giving Wes a hug goodbye and driving away from Belfast, from the University, and from some of the best friends I’d ever made. I would make sure to see them again, though it would never quite be the same. Thankfully, I had one more night to spend in Maine before leaving, though it wouldn’t be in the comfort of a friend’s air mattress. No, I was headed for the last county I’d never visited in the state: Franklin County, the land of wind, mountains and moose. 

To learn more about Sears Island and the ongoing fight over developing it, click here: https://friendsofsearsisland.org/wind-port-fact-sheet/ 

Sears Island provided just the kind of warbler experience I’d been hoping for my past four years in Maine.

In Search of the Green-tailed Towhee

Please support our efforts at FatherSonBirding by buying a *New* copy of Birding for Boomers or one of Sneed’s other books shown to the right—and by donating to Montana Bird Advocacy, a wonderful grassroots scientific organization doing novel and unique research on Montana birds.

Confession: Despite the title of this blog, the the main purpose of last weekend was not to find Green-tailed Towhees; it was to learn about a wonderful study of Gray Flycatchers with biologists Jeff Marks and Nate Kohler. However, as I set out Saturday morning, defiant of the grim weather forecast for the next day, I did have a secondary mission in mind—to find and visit with some of the birds in the arid southwest corner of the state. Over the years, these sagebrush areas, from Bear Canyon (see Bear Canyon—Montana’s “Tropical Birding” Paradise) all the way west to Beaverhead County, had become some of my favorite parts of Montana. I credit that partly to my own childhood living in the dry chaparral country of southern California, but I also just love the ecosystems and birds in this part of Montana. I’d have trouble calling myself a real birder if I didn’t get down there at least once each year.

Since you’re pressing me on the issue, I also had a third objective for this trip—to move closer to breaking my all-time one-year species record. The record belonged to 2017, when our family traveled to Ecuador and Peru and I recorded a total of 527 species for the year. This year, thanks to last-minute invitations to Colombia (see THIS POST) and Texas (see THAT POST) I unexpectedly found myself at 498 species—perilously close to setting a new record. That task loomed more difficult than it might appear since once spring migration has passed and breeding season gets underway, it becomes much more difficult to find new species. Still, a trip to the southwest part of Montana promised to nudge me closer to this new goal, and my first target was one of the state’s coolest birds: Green-tailed Towhee.

On Braden’s advice, my first real birding stops of the trip were along the Jefferson River before Lewis & Clark Caverns.

Green-tailed Towhees winter in the American Southwest and Mexico, but generally breed in the the Great Basin region of the West, including southern Montana. Though the birds are not strictly rare, I could count the number of times I had ever seen one, and I felt eager for another GTTO encounter. To find this bizarre, poorly understood beauty, I hit I-90 at dawn and steered toward Lewis and Clark Caverns, two-and-a-half hours to the east. To entertain me along the way, I had checked out an audio version of Eat, Pray, Love, a book that invites all kinds of snarky comments but, I found, actually proved moderately amusing. On Braden’s advice, I pulled over alongside the road leading to the caverns and was rewarded with a wonderful assortment of river and cliff birds including Rock Wren, Lazuli Buntings, and White-throated Swifts. Once inside Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park itself, I focused on finding Green-tailed Towhees.

I struck out. I spent a good hour and a half checking along the road, up around the main parking area, and in the campground. Merlin’s Sound ID picked up a putative GTTO song at one point, but I neither heard nor saw a trace of the bird.

I have to admit that this made me feel like a total failure. I mean, here was my first target bird of the trip, and one that shouldn’t be that hard to find, and I totally “whiffed” on it, as Braden might say. I didn’t plunge into despair exactly, but it definitely put a damper on my mood as I began questioning just what I thought I was doing out here pretending to be a birder! Well, I thought, maybe I’ll have better luck at my next destination.

Which happened to be Birch Creek Road north of Dillon in Beaverhead County. Several years before, Braden and I had found our lifer Thick-billed (formerly McCown’s) Longspur on this road, and once again, the road delivered. I’d driven only a mile before I saw a suspicious dark shape on a fence. I actually didn’t think it was a Thick-billed, but my binoculars revealed otherwise. “Yay!” I exclaimed, feeling the weight of my earlier “whiff” lifting slightly. A few minutes later, I was examining another TBLO when I noticed a large shape sitting in a field about one hundred yards away. “Clearly a hawk,” I thought, “but what kind?” The answer: the best kind, at least for my goals for the trip—a ferruginous hawk. This was another bird I needed for the year and one that isn’t always easy to find in the state.

Digging out the peanut butter sandwich I’d made earlier, I tooled down I-15 for my next destination, Clark Canyon Reservoir. Braden and I had only ever birded here once before, and as near as I recall, we hadn’t found much, so I kept my expectations low. I stopped at one overlook and was surprised to see a Common Loon on the water below, along with a Double-crested Cormorant and a couple of Ring-billed Gulls. Violet-green swallows swirled around me and, as always, they brought a smile.

Snaking around the reservoir, I approached a sign for Horse Prairie Campground and spontaneously swerved left onto a dirt access road. The reason? Tall, healthy-looking sagebrush! Hm, this just might have one of my other target birds for the day. Almost immediately, I saw a really cool bird that had not been on my target list—a Common Nighthawk peacefully chillin’ on the split-rail fence. The bird barely blinked as I fired away with my camera through the car window from only thirty feet away.

The first of three Common Nighthawks I spotted chilling on the wooden fence leading down to Horse Prairie Campground.

Creeping slowly forward, I heard a song I didn’t recognize—which was no great surprise in itself, but I did have a guess of what it was. Sound ID confirmed it: Brewer’s Sparrow! This bird loves healthy sagebrush and makes up for the world’s dullest plumage with a vigorous song that bewitches any birdwatcher who hears it. A few moments later, one even sat still long enough for a decent photo. Check. Another target bird—but not the one I expected to find here!

One of Montana’s drabbest birds, the Brewer’s Sparrow has an enchanting song.

I kept driving slowly toward the campground and spotted a medium-sized, slender bird up ahead. Wishfully, I thought it might be a Say’s Phoebe—another bird I happened to need for my year list—but it flew off before I got close. As I pulled into the campground, though, two brownish birds were chasing each other around. I assumed they were robins, but when one landed on a “Day Use Only” sign, I realized with a start that it was exactly the bird I had hoped to find here—a Sage Thrasher!

Sage Thrashers are so flighty that seeing one on a sign was about the last thing I expected!

Braden and I have never met a thrasher we didn’t like, but Sage Thrashers hold a special place in our birding hearts. For one, they’re the world’s smallest thrashers—which is why I mistook them for robins or phoebes. For another, they are charismatic songsters and often are the most common bird you see in sage country. As I sat in the car, in fact, I counted three more Sage Thrashers around me. Whoo-Hoo!

One of our favorite Montana birds, Sage Thrashers seemed to be everywhere I looked this afternoon.

Later, on the road where I was to meet up with Jeff Marks and Nate Kohler, I encountered seven more Sage Thrashers! It was a veritable thrasher party—by far the best experience I had ever had with these good-looking birds.

Unfortunately, the next morning, heavy rain and spitting snow kept me from seeing Gray Flycatchers with Jeff and Nate. More on that in another post. Almost as bad, I began the drive home without a Green-tailed Towhee under my belt and no expectations of seeing one. But bless Nate Kohler’s heart. He told me about a canyon I should check out on the way home. It was still raining when I got there, but I drove slowly and stopped frequently, listening and watching. Lazuli Buntings chattered everywhere and I saw a good variety of birds—but no towhee. Finally, I put on my raincoat, got out of the car and played a Green-tailed Towhee song. Almost immediately, a small shape darted up out of the sagebrush—the bird I was looking for! Not only that, it held still long enough for a photo—but the story hadn’t quite finished.

I worked hard for this Green-tailed Towhee—only to find that it wasn’t a year bird after all!

Once I got home and posted all of my checklists for the trip, I was surprised that eBird hadn’t added GTTO to my year list. What’s going on? I thought, and did a quick search to see if I had somehow seen one down in Texas and forgotten about it. Nope. What I did forget was the rare vagrant GTTO I had seen in Victoria, BC during Amy’s and my January trip (see Birding Victoria, BC)! So this one was not a year bird after all, but still a lot of fun to see. Meanwhile, my year list swelled to 503 species thanks to the Thick-billed Longspur, Ferruginous Hawk, Brewer’s Sparrow, Sage Thrasher, and a Prairie Falcon I had spotted the afternoon before. Not exactly the trip I expected, but one I already cherished.